The Craps Matrix Paradigm

[Craps75]

Ok I thought you only switched to the dc after a session loss. I misunderstood that part. I've done well just playing the dc though.

[Craps75]

Ok I mean to update this sooner but I'm just now getting around to it. This system worked great when I played it by the book. After getting up 20 units I decided if I played more aggressively and with a higher unit I could win more faster. That's when the wheels came off. I lost my discipline and over bet the same shooter and ended up giving my winnings back and then a little.

On a side note this system works pretty good on a bubble craps machine. I turned a $15 buy in into $90 playing bubble craps. The tables where packed and I was tired and wanted to sit. I got spanked at black jack and made a hasty retreat from the table. I then set down at the bubble craps machine and started playing the donts.

I ended up leaving $5 down for the trip.

[Craps75]

Krapperk,

Yes you are supposed to limit your loss to once per shooter. If I was knocked off on the comeout roll by a seven and the shooter wasn't setting the dice I went back up on him one more time. Several times the seven was followed by a craps number for a win.

If the shooter knocked me off by making his point I didn't bet again until they made the seven or made their third point. If they made their third point I placed a dp bet on the comeout roll for the fourth point.

This worked really well for me untill I got over confident and raised my unit as well as started betting more aggressively. Then I lost my tail!!

[Dave73]

has anyone tried this while shooting at an empty table? I have been playing with different scenarios in home practice using this and other don't methods. I shoot on the don't pass with a 2v on the come out hoping for an outside number or a paying crap. Switch to 7 set after point is established.

I've run numbers with and without odds. With and without a DC. Adding the odds or DC complicates the martingale aspect. Playing with just the DP wins more than it loses (so far at home), but I have had some long rolls even while shooting for a 7. It takes three consecutive losses to lose 7 units. I've been doubling on any loss, even a natural. Like anything, it's never 100%

[offaxis]

Dave75
Read MP dark side.
http://www.dicesetter.com/mp/MP_toc.htm#11)
Just started reading it myself
Good luck

[Craps75]

Anytime I shoot from the don't I can't toss the seven for anything! I switch to the pass line and BAM seven out!! I can't win for losing lol.

[Mad Professor]

Anytime I shoot from the don't I can't toss the seven for anything! I switch to the pass line and BAM seven out!! I can't win for losing lol.

Hi C75,

Could it be the dice-set that you are using?

Sometimes what we think is the right set for Rightside play, is in fact the right set for Darkside shooting...and vice-versa.

MP

[1eleven]

In this Craps Matrix Paradigm, what is the logic behind switching back and forth from DP to DC? I'm guessing to keep things fresh and reduce boredom but I'm curious.

I use a 3 stage progression on the DC. As you can see, the majority of my play is at 1 unit. When I'm down 3 for a series I progress to 4 units. I keep a rolling session total until I get to +5 but track each series separately. For example, a series can be -1, 0, -1, -2, -1, 0, +1. At +1 I then start a new series at Stage 1.

Stage 1: 1, 1, 1
Stage 2: 4
Stage 3: 7

My goal is 5 units. Once I hit 5 I continue to play until I drop 2 units. So, if I'm up 5 I never walk less than 3 units ahead.

[heavy]

My goal is 5 units. Once I hit 5 I continue to play until I drop 2 units. So, if I'm up 5 I never walk less than 3 units ahead.

Please tell me you are playing with at least $25 units.

Just picking on you, but it would take a long time to make any money in a $3 game some place like Joker's Wild.

[1eleven]

Please tell me you are playing with at least $25 units.

Once you go black...

It's simple to clear 3-5 units a session. Simple... not easy.

[Craps75]

MP, the only time I ever shoot from the dark side is if I'm tossing a lot of sevens from the right side. I'll use the same set that I'm using for my right side play. Then I'll go on a good roll and wipe out my don't bets!!!

Don't you LOVE the nature of this game?? LOL

[Dave73]

All the more reason to plan your play and play your plan

[1eleven]

My only thinking about why one might switch between the DP and the DC is that on a truly cold or choppy trending cold table, you can get hammered with a lot of Sevens and Yo's on the come out roll. Switching to the DC after a passline loss just puts a bit of space between rolls that just might save you a few hundred.

I am not a big fan of hedgeing but ... hop the sevens and yo if it seems to be raining sevens.

Thanks for clarifying - I guess my confusion is with one loss per shooter. If you're limiting to one loss regardless then why the change with the next shooter?

[Craps75]

When I played this system I only bet the don't pass. I have since been betting the don't come as well. If a table is trending warm, and a couple of points are being made, you can win your don't pass on a come out seven and everyone on the table wins. I've started liking the dc a lot.

[arrgy]

I only bet the DC. You get wacked on the come out way too much in my opinion for the DP.

One thing I do, however, is if the point is 4 or 10, I will lay $51 or whatever against the point and make a DC bet as well, and keep the lay up until a decision is reached. I figure I would have laid that amount anyway if I did bet the DP, so I don't mind paying the vig. If you can find a casino (like Aria) that charges the vig on the back end for the 4 or 10 its even better.