Have lots of various progressions for different games from a number of sources. Here's one that contained a number of the more famous progressions. I make no statement as to the use of any of them. Experiment at your own risk.
Kelph
Martingale
One of the first betting systems most people learn,
it's intuitively appealing, easy to use, and can
cause many very quick wins. Here's how it works:
Start off with a basic wager amount. Let's say $5,
to start. If you lose, place a $10 bet on the next
round. If you lose again place a $20 bet. Lose again,
$40, and so on and so on. You double up every single
time until you finally win, and then start off again
at $5. Let's assume we happened to win the $40 hand.
In the previous hands, we lost $35 ($5 + $10 + $20)
dollars, on the $40 hand we won. Our total winnings
are $40 - $35 = $5. It turns out that no matter how
many times you double, as long as you can keep on
doubling, you will eventually win and get your
starting wager amount back.
Pros
Very high chance of winning your basic betting
amount ($5 in the example above)
Easy and simple to use
Cons
Complications arise for games like blackjack, where
you may need to double or split.
Casinos have betting limits that prevent you from
doubling indefinitely. Depends on the table, this
limit can be $100, $200, $500 or even $10,000. But
eventually you will reach that limit. When you do,
you could find yourself losing a lot of money.
Overall
Before you decide to use this system, consider the
following very carefully. On an American roulette
wheel, by betting on a single color, you have about
a 47% chance of winning and 53% chance of losing. If
you start your bet at $5, and the table has a maximum
of $500, that leaves you with roughly a 1 in 100 chance
of losing $635, with no further opportunities to double
up. Given that at most online casinos, you can easily
play 200 or more rounds of roulette in an hour, this
method becomes a big loser. Avoid it at all costs.
Grand Martingale
Like the Martingale above, except that after each bet
you not only double your principal amount of money, but
you add a base unit (original bet amount) to it each and
every time. Considering that the Martingale is such a loser,
this method, which requires even more money, can only be
considered worse. Avoid it.
Mini Grand Martingale
Like the Martingale above, except that after each bet
you not only double your principal amount of money, but
you add $1 to it each and every time. Considering that
the Martingale is such a loser, this method, which requires
even more money, can only be considered worse. Avoid it.
Reverse Martingale or Parlay
Similar to the Martingale, but everything is reversed.
Start with some basic amount (let's say $5), and then
double up after each win, up to some fixed amount. If
you lose, start all over again at your basic amount.
Pros
Each progression through the betting sequence will limit
your loss to your initial bet. So every time you complete
a "sequence" of bets, you will only lose your initial amount
or win a very large amount. As easy and simple to use as
the Martingale
Cons
It can be difficult to have enough wins in a row to make
any money through this method, and by the time you do have
enough wins to get ahead, you may have already lost more
than you win.
Overall
This is reasonably safe betting system. It doesn't carry
the same level of stress that the Martingale carries, and
if you stick to the system, since each sequence of bets only
costs you $5 initially, you can get a lot of satisfaction
out of it.
Labouchere
One of the more complicated and insidious betting systems.
In this system you pick a series of numbers. For example,
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8. When placing your bet, select the first
and last number in the series and add them together. In
this series you would chose 1 and 8, for a total of 9.
You then place a $9 bet. If you win, you cross out the
1 and 8. The system becomes 2-3-4-5-6-7. On the other hand,
if you lose you cross out the 1 and add the 9 to the back
of the system. It then becomes 2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9. Repeat
the betting process for the new system. If you manage to
cross out all of the numbers, start at the very beginning
with a new sequence of numbers.
Once again, this system is intuitively appealing. In order
to end up ahead, you need to win half as many times as you
lose. Given that on a standard roulette wheel you have around
a 47:53 win:lose ratio, it becomes relatively easy to complete
the sequence of numbers. However, a sequence can sometimes
spiral out of control and you could end up losing a large
amount of money.
Pros
Each progression through the betting sequence ends up with
a decent chance of ending up ahead, meaning that you'll win
more often than you lose
Cons
A relatively complicated system, you may need some practice
with it before making use of it at a casino. Like the Martingale,
the potential for loss is very high--probably the highest out
of all betting systems mentioned here.
Overall
The potential for loss using the Labouchere is high. As was
mentioned above, it can become very easy for a betting sequence
to spiral out of control causing you to bet more than you're
prepared to bet.
Other Systems
D'Alembert
Start with an initial bet. Every time you lose, increase your
bet by that initial amount. Every time you win, lower it by
that initial amount.
This is a progression system which tries to win back your
losses in small steps instead of all at once like the Martingale.
It was designed for use on the even chance bets on a roulette
table but can be used on any even chance bets.
Concept
D’Alembert works under the assumption that over a period of
time there will be an equal number of ‘reds’ and ‘blacks’.
We start the session by placing one unit ($1, $5 or any other
value) on one of the even chance bets (e.g. ‘red’), after a
losing spin we increase the next bet by one unit and after a
winning bet we decrease the next bet by one unit. So if we
were betting on ‘red’ and the spins were - black, black, black,
red, black, red, red, black, red, red, red - then the bets
placed would be as follows (the numbers in brackets show the
level of your bankroll after the spin):
1 (-1), 2 (-3), 3 (-6), 4 (-2), 3 (-5), 4 (-1), 3 (+2),
2 (+0), 3 (+3), 2 (+5), 1 (+6)
This sequence would end with a win of $6. As you can see,
as soon as the number of ‘reds’ is equal to the number of
‘blacks’ plus one then the sequence ends with a win. You may
also notice that after the 7th, 9th and 10th spins we were
also showing a profit, this is because the bets placed on
winning spins are one unit greater than the previous losing
spin. Having the possibility of a positive bankroll before
the sequence is complete allows us to choose to cut the session
short and take a smaller win rather than risking the chance
of the session ending badly.
The Catch
Although the D’Alembert reduces the chances of a complete
wipe-out of your bankroll when compared to the Martingale, the
possibility is still there. A long sequence of consecutive
losses or a period of time where ‘black’ occurs more often than
‘red’ will soon put the system in a position where it becomes
almost impossible to recover. As always the house edge works
on every spin, and so increasing your bets will eventually
increase your losses.
Blackjack Variation
D’Alembert can be adapted for use on blackjack by following
a couple of simple rules.
When you have a stand off the next bet remains the same.
If you lose a double or split you must step up your bet by one
unit for every stake lost e.g. if your current bet is 5 units
and you double the hand and lose then your next bet would be 7.
If you win a double or split you must step down your bet by
one unit for every stake won e.g. if you had won the hand in
the previous example then your next bet would be 3 units.
If you get ‘blackjack’ then you can either count this as a
bonus and step down your next bet by one unit as usual or you
can step down your next bet by two units. note. stepping down
by 2 units may sometimes end a session with a slight loss, but
it gives a greater chance of completing a session.
Using D’Alembert with blackjack usually gives more chances to
cut a session short and collect a small win because off the extra
winnings gained when doubling and splitting. Of course you must
use the correct basic strategy or this type of progression will
become very costly.
Conclusion
D’Alembert gives you two bonuses over the Martingale, firstly
you do not increase your bets as rapidly which gives you the
chance to stop a session and accept a small to medium loss.
Secondly, you can find that your bankroll is positive before
a session is complete, this give you the option to cut short
a session with a small win. The downside is that a session can
last for many spins, so you should always give yourself time
to run through a full session. The main problem is that which
is related to all progressive systems - you will win little and
often but when you lose it will probably wipe out all previous
winnings and eat into your main bankroll.
As with all progressive systems you must be very careful when
you use them, the D’Alembert is not as dangerous as the Martingale
but it can still be the cause of very large losses.
Up and Down
Like the D'Alembert, only reversed. Every time you win, increase
your bet by your initial amount. Every time you lose, lower it
by the same amount.
Dahl's Progression
Place your bets according to the following sequence:
5-5-7-7-10-10-15-15-25-25-35-35-50. Once you reach the top
of the sequence, continue to bet 50. If you should happen
to lose at any point, restart the sequence. (quit and revert
any time you are even or when ahead by a comfortable
margin - personal choice)
2 in 5
Place your bets according to the following sequence:
5-7-12-15-25.
As soon as you win two bets in the series, or if you should
happen to lose at 25, restart the series.
31
Place your bets using the following sequence: 1-1-1-4-8-16.
Progress to the next number in the series if you lose. If
you should win, however, double (parlay) this amount and
bet again. If you should win again, restart the series. If
you should lose, move up to the next number in the progression.
Once you lose at 16, start the sequence over.
Fibonacci
Similar to the dDAlembert, except instead of doubling or
halving your bet each time, move up and down based on the
following sequence: 1-1-2-3-5-8-13-21-34-55-89-144-...
Like the D'alembert, should you lose, move to the next number
in the series. Should win you, fall back one number (or stay
at that number for one more win then revert to base bet or
go back 2 steps on any win).
EXAMPLE: a progression of 4 losses and two wins (LLLLWW) leaves
us at -1 -1 -2 -3 +5 +3 = +1, where we have lost twice as many
bets as we have won, but still pocketed 1 unit, simply because
we have won two bets in a row.
In a similar series where we do not win two in a row, but only
2 of 3 (LLLLWLW) we again restart the series, but this time out
profit picture will be -1 -1 -2 -3 +5 -3 +5 = 0, where our 2 of
3 wins has neutralized the progression, and we start again at
1 unit.
And suppose we decided to play a 12-step Fibonacci, with our
top bet being 144 units. Our total risk, which is the complete
and utter loss of an entire series, is 376 units,
or 1 +1 +2 +3 +5 +8 +13 +21 +34 +55 +89 +144 = 376. We can lose
eleven bets in a row, (LLLLLLLLLLLWLW), lose a total of 232 units
in a row, then win 144, lose 89, win 144 for a total loss of 33
units, less than 10% of our session money.
The odds against losing 11 bets in a row are the same as winning
11 bets in a row, 2047 to 1. And the odds against losing our whole
series of 12 bets are 4095 to 1. You could use this system 365 days
a year and expect 11 losses in a row every 5 ½ years, and a loss
of a total series once every 11 years The problem with the Fibonacci
is not safety, therefore, but the fact that approximately half of
your wins will come at the very first level of 1 unit, making it a
boring, albeit, profitable grind. In order to counteract this
situation, some gamblers will begin their progression at the 4th
or 5th level, and alternately move up or down as they win or lose,
depending on their temperament and goals.
EXAMPLE: We begin with 5 units and win. We then move up the
progression and win 8 units. We have won a total of 13 units and
completed our Fibonacci objective of two wins in a row. Now we
reduce our bet to 3 units, locking in a profit of 10 units if we
lose it. But if we win that 3 units bet, our next is 5 units. The
variations are practically limitless, and the safety level is very
high. The Fibonacci is a great system for the recreational gambler,
the grind player who wants a few enjoyable hours gambling without
jeopardizing his mortgage, and the pro who wants to ease into his
game before he gets serious.
To use the Fibonacci properly, a player must first memorize the
progression, and then practice at home flipping a coin, until
the bets are made automatically. It is a perfect system for all
the even-chance games like Craps, Baccarat and Roulette, and can
be easily modified into a money-management system for Blackjack
and sports betting. It is also acknowledged as an excellent system
for partners betting opposite each other. However you decide to
employ this versatile progression, you will find fewer more powerful
ways to win with as little risk.
O'Hare Straddle
Take out a very large short-term loan from any source that's
available. Use all of it on a single wager but save for enough
to purchase a ticket to South America. If you win, pay back
your debt and enjoy. If you lose, quickly flee the country
with the money you saved for your plane ticket.
1-3-2-6
A very simple, straightforward betting system. Place bets
based on the following progression: 1-3-2-6. If you should
happen to lose, start over again at 1.
Paroli
Very similar to a reverse of the "Super Martingale". Reinvest
your winnings plus add your original bet to the amount. For
example, bet $5. If you win, bet $10+$5 = $15. If you should
win again bet $30 + $5 = $35. If you should win yet again bet
$70 + $5 = $75.
Regression System
This system is designed for use on even chance bets.
Concept
The idea behind the regression system is that every session
starts with a wining bet and then builds on this foundation.
You start by placing a 2 unit bet and if this wins you then
reduce your next bet to 1 unit. By doing this your bankroll
after the first winning bet will have increased by one unit
whether or not you win the next bet. After your initial win
you then increase the bet after every win by one unit, this
means that you will not take a profit on the second win but
after a number of consecutive wins you will start to rake in
large amounts.
To compare how this system works against a series of flat
bets I have set up a table that shows how your bankroll would
fare if playing with $5 units
Winning Sequence Regression Flat Bet
L -$10 -$10
W,L +$5 +$0
W,W,L +$5 +$10
W,W,W,L +$10 +$20
W,W,W,W,L +$20 +$30
W,W,W,W,W,L +$35 +$40
W,W,W,W,W,W,L +$55 +$50
W,W,W,W,W,W,W,L +$80 +$60
W,W,W,W,W,W,W,W,L +$110 +$70
W,W,W,W,W,W,W,W,W,L +$145 +$80
W,W,W,W,W,W,W,W,W,W,L +$185 +$90
From this table we can see that the regression system needs to
get a series of at least six consecutive wins in order to show a
larger profit than flat betting. Sessions between two and five
wins show a smaller profit, but the big advantage of this system
is that you can ride out a losing streak (or even show a small
profit if the streak is not too severe), and still make a killing
when the luck turns your way.
The Catch
There isn’t much of a catch to this system. You are trading
off medium run wins for wins of one run and wins of 6+ runs.
Remember that the house edge will be working on all bets and
not just your initial bet, and that when your bets get very
large you are playing with your money and NOT the casinos.
Blackjack
This system can be used effectively on blackjack, but remember
that you may need extra money to double or split the cards. If
the casino you are playing at allows multiple splits with doubles
then a very promising win can turn bad very quickly. Always use
the correct basic blackjack strategy but if the stakes are getting
too high then it may be wise not to split or double. You may even
decide to take insurance if the bet is very large (something you
should not normally do) and it’s the difference between a losing
day and a winning day. (note. Over the long run you will be better
sticking to basic blackjack strategy).
Conclusion
This system can be very effective if you have the patience to
wait for the long runs. You can have some great pay offs and
still be picking up small bets through the bad times to keep
your bankroll topped up. It’s very nice when you start out on
a series of bets knowing that your bankroll has increased, but
equally unpleasant when you see a $100 bet lose. Although it
will not alter the long term edge the casino has, this system
can be very useful - Learn it!
Lump of Progressions
Moderators: 220Inside, DarthNater
Re: Lump of Progressions
Here's more purely for informative value.
Kelph
The Contra D'Alembert System
This system presents a variant in comparison with
the classic D'Alembert system and therefore all
previous considerations made are just the same.
The Contra D'Alembert system has been projected
when it was clear that the classic D'Alembert system
required a great amount of money and the balance
return would be delayed later with hundreds of spins.
General Concept
As the name implies, the Contra D'Alembert system is
exactly the opposite of the classic D'Alembert system
and it has been conceived to gain as much as possible
during the positive series (which doesn't occur in
the classic D'Alembert). In this case, the main
purpose is to obtain profit on reaching the balance
between two chances.
Rule
It's pretty easy again: Increase your bet by one unit
after every win and decrease your bet by one unit
after every loss.
fix the unit value (chip = £1, £5 or any other value)
start the session by placing one unit on one of the
even chance bets (e.g. "Black") after a losing bet you
decrease the next bet by one unit after a winning bet
you increase the next bet by one unit when you lose
by placing one unit, on the next spin you have to bet
one unit again stop bets when a balance between two
chances is reached (equal number of "reds" and "blacks")
start a new betting session from point 1)
Conclusions
As this system offers reasonable protection of the downside,
it's one of the best to try (if you're determined to play
systems), because when losses come, your bets regress to
the base level, where they will stay until the winnings
return. This means there are few large winnings and more
smaller losses but also the winnings are likely to get
fairly well wiped out with one loss after a group of
winnings. It's not bad to exploit a winning run, if
it is used as a sporadic technique.
Reduced D'Alembert
A variation that permits to optimize the progressions.
Remember the two principal faults present in the D'Alembert
progression:
In certain balance stages, when the first bets are winning,
on reaching the balance final result could be lost. The
balance could be reached before it's useful.
General Concept
This version has been proposed to reduce the huge amount
of money you normally risk in the classic D'Alembert
system and permits to extend your gaming sessions in a
more comfortable way. This progression doesn't aim to
reach the balance but mainly to win a few quid.
Rule
Increase your bet by one unit for every five units loss
and decrease by one unit for every five units recovered.
Restart a new gaming session every time that session is
a positive bankroll even with only one unit.
Follow these simple points:
fix the unit value (chip = £1, £5 or any other value)
start the session by placing one unit on one of the even
chance bets (e.g. "Red") Increase the bet by one unit every
time the bankroll is negative for 5 units Decrease the bet
by 1 unit every time 5 units are recovered Every time the
temporary bankroll is positive (accumulated result) even
with only one unit, start a new betting session from point 1)
[graphics omitted]
Conclusions
As already stated, this system permits to drastically reduce
the risks but rely on a minor profit and therefore you can
play this system in a relaxed manner with a small amount
of money.
Guetting Progression
Charles Guetting was a French mathematician who apparently got
rich at Monte Carlo years ago using this.
Well...we haven't gotten rich using it but have not done
too badly either.
And since we started using it we have kissed Martingale,
Labouchere and D'Alembert goodbye.
Being a REAL mathematician, Guetting did his sums and concluded
that if we're going to increment progressively, first we have to
get some fire under our ass, and then keep burning.
But if the fire goes out, we've got enough wood to stay warm.
Here's how it works.
First off, digest the following table and then forget it:
First Level = 1 unit
Second Level = 1.5 / 2 / 3 units
Third Level = 4 / 6 / 8 units
Fourth Level = 10 / 15 / 20 units
This was Guetting' s original master plan.
But what is 1.5 of a unit?
Good question and you must have taken Greek literature
at college if you're asking.
Ok, say you have beans and don't want to cut any in half...how
do you get 1.5 of any value of beans ?
You start with 2 beans and make that your 1 unit value so 1.5 of 2
beans (one and a half of two) is three beans.
Got it ?
Basically we've doubled Guetting's original table values above to
get playable and understandable numbers for us simple folk.
To simplify your calculator finger work, here's the resulting table
in the logical uncut bean units:
First level = 2 units
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
We suggest you write this down in any way that you can associate
with it and remember it at the real table.
If you smoke, write it on the back of your cigarette box.
If you don't smoke - pretend you do.
The levels might be considered as gears.
If you progress in Level 2 from 3 mph to 4 mph and then to 6 mph,
you change gears up to Level 3 and go to 8 mph.... etc.
The mechanism:
This system is applied to even outside bets and we'll take red and
black as our primary example.
The logic is as follows:
After TWO consecutive wins on one unit in any level - you go up to
the next higher unit IN THAT LEVEL.
After the last unit in any level has won twice you go up one level
to the first unit of that new level.
If you're betting a unit in any level for the first time and lose,
you go back to jail and to the first unit in the previous level.
If you've won on one unit in any level the first time but lose on
the second bet on that same unit - you repeat the bet starting again
from that same unit since one win is cancelled by a loss of the same bet.
Let's give it a go.
Here's the table again:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
You place 2 chips on red.
If you win - good for you and bet 2 units again on red.
If you lose - bad for you AND START OVER AGAIN betting 2 units once more on red.
If you keep losing, keep betting two units. FOREVER.
Or until the ambulance arrives.
This means if you lose 10 times in a row on red, you have only bet
2 chips every time and lost 20 units.
This is what makes the system affordable but wait till you add our
'Jump the Tram' variant.
Getting back to winning:
If you win on the first bet with 2 chips, you repeat it with 2
chips again because you repeat every unit bet of every level once
it has won.
Here's a plausible sequence:
And here's the table again for your convenience:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
(first and only unit in level 1)
2 = win = gain 2
2 = win = gain 4
(next level - level 2 - unit 1)
3 = win = gain 7
3 = win = gain 10
(still level 2 - unit 2)
4 = win = gain 14
4 = win = gain 18
(still level 2 - unit 3)
6 = win = gain 24
6 = win = gain 30
You've now won in 8 consecutive
spins and have gained 30 units.
Just to recap:
Every time you win with one unit, you repeat it once again, and
if you win a second time proceed to the next unit in that level.
If you've completed all units in one level you go up to the first
unit in the next new level and continue as before.
If we had been playing the standard 'Double or Die' suicide
progression, (2,4,8 etc) we'd only have 2 x 8 = 16 chips because
after every win we'd go back to starters with the initial bet of 2.
With Guetting, after 8 consecutive wins we have 30 units and
this is the first interesting point on dear old Guetting's
contribution to mankind.
It get's even better since Guetting had an escape plan.
If you haven't wondered up till now about what happens when we lose,
then you really did take Greek at college....
What do you do after a loss, or two losses?
Or worse still - a series of losses?
This is where the levels come into play.
Losing:
As already explained, if you lose on the first time on any unit,
you go back to the first unit of the previous level. If in level
1 you stay on unit 1 all the time in case of repetitive losses.
If you lose on the second bet of a unit - then you start again from
that same unit since one loss cancels out one win.
But if we continue to lose.....several times in a row.....
Here's the same series as before:
(first and only unit in level 1)
2 = win = gain 2
2 = win = gain 4
(next level - level 2 - unit 1)
3 = win = gain 7
3 = win = gain 10
(still level 2 - unit 2)
4 = win = gain 14
4 = win = gain 18
(still level 2 - unit 3)
6 = win = gain 24
6 = win = gain 30
and then on the ninth spin we get a losing streak....
On the ninth spin you should have bet: 8
Here's the table again:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
If you lose on the ninth bet then you've still got a gain of
22 units (30 - 8 = 22).
What do we do now?
We regress from the third level (8) back to the first unit in
level #2 and this is unit 3.
Here's the table again:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
If we lose again, this means we have 22 -3 = 19 and we again
regress to the first unit in the preceding and lower level.
In this case it's Level #1 and the 2 unit bet.
If we continue to lose we continue to bet 2 units - ALL the time.
If for example we won 8 times in a row and then lost 9 times in
a row, all we have gained is 5 units.
Was it worth it?
Check these charts and then you tell us if you think it was
worth it:
Can it get better?
If you add our fuzzy logic it can.
Once again we modify this system, leaving it exactly as it is
but after two losses on one color we use the 'Jump the Tram'
variant.
This means that if you start playing on red for example, and black
decides to come out 25 times in a row, if you play the classical
'stick to my breeches' system, you're going to be 50 units down
after 25 spins.
Better down 50 units than if we had used the Double or Die system
(Martingale) where we'd be around 16,000 units down with no chance
of redoubling after the 14th spin due to the table limit.
And exactly because of the long negative series it would be a
pity not to jump on a better tram.
And this is what we do with the Guetting system.
So if we started on red, after two losses we jump onto black,
and so on.
So basically the Guetting system remains the same as far as the levels,
their units and the losing sequences just explained but you DON'T stick
to the same color and jump onto the other color after two consecutive
losses."
Kelph
The Contra D'Alembert System
This system presents a variant in comparison with
the classic D'Alembert system and therefore all
previous considerations made are just the same.
The Contra D'Alembert system has been projected
when it was clear that the classic D'Alembert system
required a great amount of money and the balance
return would be delayed later with hundreds of spins.
General Concept
As the name implies, the Contra D'Alembert system is
exactly the opposite of the classic D'Alembert system
and it has been conceived to gain as much as possible
during the positive series (which doesn't occur in
the classic D'Alembert). In this case, the main
purpose is to obtain profit on reaching the balance
between two chances.
Rule
It's pretty easy again: Increase your bet by one unit
after every win and decrease your bet by one unit
after every loss.
fix the unit value (chip = £1, £5 or any other value)
start the session by placing one unit on one of the
even chance bets (e.g. "Black") after a losing bet you
decrease the next bet by one unit after a winning bet
you increase the next bet by one unit when you lose
by placing one unit, on the next spin you have to bet
one unit again stop bets when a balance between two
chances is reached (equal number of "reds" and "blacks")
start a new betting session from point 1)
Conclusions
As this system offers reasonable protection of the downside,
it's one of the best to try (if you're determined to play
systems), because when losses come, your bets regress to
the base level, where they will stay until the winnings
return. This means there are few large winnings and more
smaller losses but also the winnings are likely to get
fairly well wiped out with one loss after a group of
winnings. It's not bad to exploit a winning run, if
it is used as a sporadic technique.
Reduced D'Alembert
A variation that permits to optimize the progressions.
Remember the two principal faults present in the D'Alembert
progression:
In certain balance stages, when the first bets are winning,
on reaching the balance final result could be lost. The
balance could be reached before it's useful.
General Concept
This version has been proposed to reduce the huge amount
of money you normally risk in the classic D'Alembert
system and permits to extend your gaming sessions in a
more comfortable way. This progression doesn't aim to
reach the balance but mainly to win a few quid.
Rule
Increase your bet by one unit for every five units loss
and decrease by one unit for every five units recovered.
Restart a new gaming session every time that session is
a positive bankroll even with only one unit.
Follow these simple points:
fix the unit value (chip = £1, £5 or any other value)
start the session by placing one unit on one of the even
chance bets (e.g. "Red") Increase the bet by one unit every
time the bankroll is negative for 5 units Decrease the bet
by 1 unit every time 5 units are recovered Every time the
temporary bankroll is positive (accumulated result) even
with only one unit, start a new betting session from point 1)
[graphics omitted]
Conclusions
As already stated, this system permits to drastically reduce
the risks but rely on a minor profit and therefore you can
play this system in a relaxed manner with a small amount
of money.
Guetting Progression
Charles Guetting was a French mathematician who apparently got
rich at Monte Carlo years ago using this.
Well...we haven't gotten rich using it but have not done
too badly either.
And since we started using it we have kissed Martingale,
Labouchere and D'Alembert goodbye.
Being a REAL mathematician, Guetting did his sums and concluded
that if we're going to increment progressively, first we have to
get some fire under our ass, and then keep burning.
But if the fire goes out, we've got enough wood to stay warm.
Here's how it works.
First off, digest the following table and then forget it:
First Level = 1 unit
Second Level = 1.5 / 2 / 3 units
Third Level = 4 / 6 / 8 units
Fourth Level = 10 / 15 / 20 units
This was Guetting' s original master plan.
But what is 1.5 of a unit?
Good question and you must have taken Greek literature
at college if you're asking.
Ok, say you have beans and don't want to cut any in half...how
do you get 1.5 of any value of beans ?
You start with 2 beans and make that your 1 unit value so 1.5 of 2
beans (one and a half of two) is three beans.
Got it ?
Basically we've doubled Guetting's original table values above to
get playable and understandable numbers for us simple folk.
To simplify your calculator finger work, here's the resulting table
in the logical uncut bean units:
First level = 2 units
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
We suggest you write this down in any way that you can associate
with it and remember it at the real table.
If you smoke, write it on the back of your cigarette box.
If you don't smoke - pretend you do.
The levels might be considered as gears.
If you progress in Level 2 from 3 mph to 4 mph and then to 6 mph,
you change gears up to Level 3 and go to 8 mph.... etc.
The mechanism:
This system is applied to even outside bets and we'll take red and
black as our primary example.
The logic is as follows:
After TWO consecutive wins on one unit in any level - you go up to
the next higher unit IN THAT LEVEL.
After the last unit in any level has won twice you go up one level
to the first unit of that new level.
If you're betting a unit in any level for the first time and lose,
you go back to jail and to the first unit in the previous level.
If you've won on one unit in any level the first time but lose on
the second bet on that same unit - you repeat the bet starting again
from that same unit since one win is cancelled by a loss of the same bet.
Let's give it a go.
Here's the table again:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
You place 2 chips on red.
If you win - good for you and bet 2 units again on red.
If you lose - bad for you AND START OVER AGAIN betting 2 units once more on red.
If you keep losing, keep betting two units. FOREVER.
Or until the ambulance arrives.
This means if you lose 10 times in a row on red, you have only bet
2 chips every time and lost 20 units.
This is what makes the system affordable but wait till you add our
'Jump the Tram' variant.
Getting back to winning:
If you win on the first bet with 2 chips, you repeat it with 2
chips again because you repeat every unit bet of every level once
it has won.
Here's a plausible sequence:
And here's the table again for your convenience:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
(first and only unit in level 1)
2 = win = gain 2
2 = win = gain 4
(next level - level 2 - unit 1)
3 = win = gain 7
3 = win = gain 10
(still level 2 - unit 2)
4 = win = gain 14
4 = win = gain 18
(still level 2 - unit 3)
6 = win = gain 24
6 = win = gain 30
You've now won in 8 consecutive
spins and have gained 30 units.
Just to recap:
Every time you win with one unit, you repeat it once again, and
if you win a second time proceed to the next unit in that level.
If you've completed all units in one level you go up to the first
unit in the next new level and continue as before.
If we had been playing the standard 'Double or Die' suicide
progression, (2,4,8 etc) we'd only have 2 x 8 = 16 chips because
after every win we'd go back to starters with the initial bet of 2.
With Guetting, after 8 consecutive wins we have 30 units and
this is the first interesting point on dear old Guetting's
contribution to mankind.
It get's even better since Guetting had an escape plan.
If you haven't wondered up till now about what happens when we lose,
then you really did take Greek at college....
What do you do after a loss, or two losses?
Or worse still - a series of losses?
This is where the levels come into play.
Losing:
As already explained, if you lose on the first time on any unit,
you go back to the first unit of the previous level. If in level
1 you stay on unit 1 all the time in case of repetitive losses.
If you lose on the second bet of a unit - then you start again from
that same unit since one loss cancels out one win.
But if we continue to lose.....several times in a row.....
Here's the same series as before:
(first and only unit in level 1)
2 = win = gain 2
2 = win = gain 4
(next level - level 2 - unit 1)
3 = win = gain 7
3 = win = gain 10
(still level 2 - unit 2)
4 = win = gain 14
4 = win = gain 18
(still level 2 - unit 3)
6 = win = gain 24
6 = win = gain 30
and then on the ninth spin we get a losing streak....
On the ninth spin you should have bet: 8
Here's the table again:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
If you lose on the ninth bet then you've still got a gain of
22 units (30 - 8 = 22).
What do we do now?
We regress from the third level (8) back to the first unit in
level #2 and this is unit 3.
Here's the table again:
First level = 2 unit
Second level = 3 / 4 / 6 units
Third level = 8 / 12 / 16 units
Fourth Level = 20 / 30 / 40 units
If we lose again, this means we have 22 -3 = 19 and we again
regress to the first unit in the preceding and lower level.
In this case it's Level #1 and the 2 unit bet.
If we continue to lose we continue to bet 2 units - ALL the time.
If for example we won 8 times in a row and then lost 9 times in
a row, all we have gained is 5 units.
Was it worth it?
Check these charts and then you tell us if you think it was
worth it:
Can it get better?
If you add our fuzzy logic it can.
Once again we modify this system, leaving it exactly as it is
but after two losses on one color we use the 'Jump the Tram'
variant.
This means that if you start playing on red for example, and black
decides to come out 25 times in a row, if you play the classical
'stick to my breeches' system, you're going to be 50 units down
after 25 spins.
Better down 50 units than if we had used the Double or Die system
(Martingale) where we'd be around 16,000 units down with no chance
of redoubling after the 14th spin due to the table limit.
And exactly because of the long negative series it would be a
pity not to jump on a better tram.
And this is what we do with the Guetting system.
So if we started on red, after two losses we jump onto black,
and so on.
So basically the Guetting system remains the same as far as the levels,
their units and the losing sequences just explained but you DON'T stick
to the same color and jump onto the other color after two consecutive
losses."
Re: Lump of Progressions
Even more......
I’m not going to go into all the Doppler Don't detail but just provide the basic approach. This is no magic bullet but a good grind it out Don’t approach for Cool and Cold tables. It can perform well on choppy tables if you get through the CO roll unburned and use discipline.
I’m sure that you’ve already heard what’s in this approach over the years but Doppler has pulled it together in a focused method. He lays out the required BR depending on betting level and when the flat portion is increased (see rules) it should be in 20% increments with the correct increase in laying odds (he shows double or triple).
DOPPLER DON’T
Never let any single shooter beat you more than twice in a row whether during the Come Out (CO) with Naturals or making the Point or any combination of the two.
Always parlay CO Natural wins but for a maximum of two wins. Take the profit after the second win and return to original bet amount before the initial parlay.
If a Point is established while you have a parlay bet you do not lay odds.
When you win a Don’t Pass bet (DP) with a 7 Out (CO Naturals do not count) increase the next DP bet by 20%.
If you lose a DP with full odds or two consecutive CO rolls you return to your beginning base bet amount.
Don’t Come (DC) bets are allowed only after winning two DP bets with odds in a row.
Number of DC bets allowed as follows:
Point 4 or 10 – 2 DCs
Point 5 or 9 – 1 DC
Point 6 or 8 – no DC
The DC flat bet amount should always be two increments less than the current DP flat bet amount. So 20% of the DP flat amount should be doubled and subtracted from the flat DP to arrive at the DC amount.
Follow the same rules for the DC as the DP except DC numbers do not allow additional DC bets.
If making an allowed DC bet and an 11 is thrown (a DC CO roll that you now lose) you may only make one additional DC bet regardless of whether the DP is a 4, 10, 5 or 9 – no DCs if 6 or 8). Another 11 and you’re done betting DCs based on this Point.
Hope you found this useful.
GOOD IRON CROSS
(Not mine, just pasting and I don't even remember where I originally got this.......Kelph)
In my Opinion the only real way to play Iron Cross is to make a Don’t Pass bet. Once the point is made lay the point and make a Field, and 5, 6, & 8 bet. Collect 3 hits then remove your lay bet on the DP and Place bet the Point for same amount and tell dealers off on 5, 6, & 8.
I.E.
Don’t Pass $25 ($6 on 3 way 7) (no need to play a Yo as it will balance out with ace deuce over time)
Lets say point is a 9…Lay $45 to win $30… On a 6-8 Lay $30 to make $25 and a 4-10 Lay $50 to make $25.
Immediately Place a $15 on 5..a $18 each on 6 and 8….that’s a total $51 at risk.
Make a Field bet of $10. Total $ on Field, 5, 6, & 8 is $61.
If a 7 shows on first roll, you Lose $61 but Win $55 for a $6 net Loss
If 7 shows on 2nd Roll you Lose $61 on F, 5, 6, 8 and Win 1 bet of $11 and Win $55 on the Don’t Pass for a net gain of +$4
If the 7 come on the 3rd Roll you will Lose $61 on the F, 5, 6, 8. and Win 2 bets of say $21 and Win $55 on DP for a net gain of $15
If no 7 Shows and you get your 3 hits you win around $32 on the 3 hits and once you remove the DP lay Odds, then Place the Point. If the point comes, you net the difference in the odds portion. Of course if one of your hits is a 2 or 12 you will win double or triple. So you could Win 2 to 3X that $32…
If the Point is made immediately, you will Lose $71 on the DP but make $10 on the field for a net of -$61.. If Point 7 comes i would wait for a qualified shooter. One that makes at least 5 numbers w/o a 7 out…
You can never have a perfect world, but this is the closest to perfect when dealing with The Iron Cross. I chart all numbers thrown. So I can see the trend at the table. I wait for a shooter by doing a 5 count, then I go for only 2 hits starting on roll 6 and ending on roll 7. Once I get a Win of 2 units I’ll now start the following Variation to Iron Cross below on next shooter. If at any time I lose to a Point 7, then I re-qualify a 5 count then start same process. This keeps you from giving back a lot of units and protects against a bunch of short rolls. I played last night at the Rio in Las Vegas and here were the throws per shooter… 2, 2, 8, 15, (Me 13), 4, 8, 8, 9, 2,( Me 16), 3, 8, 13, 8, 2,1 1, 8, 2, (51 me), 7, 6,6, 4, (Me 3), 6, 11, 40, 17, (Me 14), 19, and 6. So my point is this…the first 2 shooters go point 7, so you wait..next shoot Point 7, so you wait for 5 numbers and go in for 2 hits and then pull lay down, Place point and take Field and 5, 6, & 8 down… play out the roll. In this case the 7 out came on 8th roll so I collected…next shooter I go for 3 hits… I continue to get 3 hits.
Before I forget..if your point is 5,6,8 you do everything the same…you give them $51 and say 5,6,8 including the point. If the number hits you take less a loss on the Don’t Pass.
I’m not going to go into all the Doppler Don't detail but just provide the basic approach. This is no magic bullet but a good grind it out Don’t approach for Cool and Cold tables. It can perform well on choppy tables if you get through the CO roll unburned and use discipline.
I’m sure that you’ve already heard what’s in this approach over the years but Doppler has pulled it together in a focused method. He lays out the required BR depending on betting level and when the flat portion is increased (see rules) it should be in 20% increments with the correct increase in laying odds (he shows double or triple).
DOPPLER DON’T
Never let any single shooter beat you more than twice in a row whether during the Come Out (CO) with Naturals or making the Point or any combination of the two.
Always parlay CO Natural wins but for a maximum of two wins. Take the profit after the second win and return to original bet amount before the initial parlay.
If a Point is established while you have a parlay bet you do not lay odds.
When you win a Don’t Pass bet (DP) with a 7 Out (CO Naturals do not count) increase the next DP bet by 20%.
If you lose a DP with full odds or two consecutive CO rolls you return to your beginning base bet amount.
Don’t Come (DC) bets are allowed only after winning two DP bets with odds in a row.
Number of DC bets allowed as follows:
Point 4 or 10 – 2 DCs
Point 5 or 9 – 1 DC
Point 6 or 8 – no DC
The DC flat bet amount should always be two increments less than the current DP flat bet amount. So 20% of the DP flat amount should be doubled and subtracted from the flat DP to arrive at the DC amount.
Follow the same rules for the DC as the DP except DC numbers do not allow additional DC bets.
If making an allowed DC bet and an 11 is thrown (a DC CO roll that you now lose) you may only make one additional DC bet regardless of whether the DP is a 4, 10, 5 or 9 – no DCs if 6 or 8). Another 11 and you’re done betting DCs based on this Point.
Hope you found this useful.
GOOD IRON CROSS
(Not mine, just pasting and I don't even remember where I originally got this.......Kelph)
In my Opinion the only real way to play Iron Cross is to make a Don’t Pass bet. Once the point is made lay the point and make a Field, and 5, 6, & 8 bet. Collect 3 hits then remove your lay bet on the DP and Place bet the Point for same amount and tell dealers off on 5, 6, & 8.
I.E.
Don’t Pass $25 ($6 on 3 way 7) (no need to play a Yo as it will balance out with ace deuce over time)
Lets say point is a 9…Lay $45 to win $30… On a 6-8 Lay $30 to make $25 and a 4-10 Lay $50 to make $25.
Immediately Place a $15 on 5..a $18 each on 6 and 8….that’s a total $51 at risk.
Make a Field bet of $10. Total $ on Field, 5, 6, & 8 is $61.
If a 7 shows on first roll, you Lose $61 but Win $55 for a $6 net Loss
If 7 shows on 2nd Roll you Lose $61 on F, 5, 6, 8 and Win 1 bet of $11 and Win $55 on the Don’t Pass for a net gain of +$4
If the 7 come on the 3rd Roll you will Lose $61 on the F, 5, 6, 8. and Win 2 bets of say $21 and Win $55 on DP for a net gain of $15
If no 7 Shows and you get your 3 hits you win around $32 on the 3 hits and once you remove the DP lay Odds, then Place the Point. If the point comes, you net the difference in the odds portion. Of course if one of your hits is a 2 or 12 you will win double or triple. So you could Win 2 to 3X that $32…
If the Point is made immediately, you will Lose $71 on the DP but make $10 on the field for a net of -$61.. If Point 7 comes i would wait for a qualified shooter. One that makes at least 5 numbers w/o a 7 out…
You can never have a perfect world, but this is the closest to perfect when dealing with The Iron Cross. I chart all numbers thrown. So I can see the trend at the table. I wait for a shooter by doing a 5 count, then I go for only 2 hits starting on roll 6 and ending on roll 7. Once I get a Win of 2 units I’ll now start the following Variation to Iron Cross below on next shooter. If at any time I lose to a Point 7, then I re-qualify a 5 count then start same process. This keeps you from giving back a lot of units and protects against a bunch of short rolls. I played last night at the Rio in Las Vegas and here were the throws per shooter… 2, 2, 8, 15, (Me 13), 4, 8, 8, 9, 2,( Me 16), 3, 8, 13, 8, 2,1 1, 8, 2, (51 me), 7, 6,6, 4, (Me 3), 6, 11, 40, 17, (Me 14), 19, and 6. So my point is this…the first 2 shooters go point 7, so you wait..next shoot Point 7, so you wait for 5 numbers and go in for 2 hits and then pull lay down, Place point and take Field and 5, 6, & 8 down… play out the roll. In this case the 7 out came on 8th roll so I collected…next shooter I go for 3 hits… I continue to get 3 hits.
Before I forget..if your point is 5,6,8 you do everything the same…you give them $51 and say 5,6,8 including the point. If the number hits you take less a loss on the Don’t Pass.
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Americraps
- Posts: 1101
- Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2011 2:42 pm
- Location: Elgin, IL
Re: Lump of Progressions
Last Year, CHarlie, Bones, and I played with a guy who was using an interesting progression. He had $10 5, $12 6 and 8, and a $10 field, along with a no 4 and no 10 for an amount equal to all his right side money ($44 each, I think). Every time he got knocked off on a four or ten, he would progress the don't bets (equally between the no 4 and 10) in such a manner that when the seven finally came, he would cover the $44 in action he had on the Iron cross, plus his previous losses on the no 4 and 10. His goal was to collect on the iron cross until the shooter 7nd out, and he never pressed the iron cross amounts. He only pressed the no 4 and 10 to cover his rightside action plays plus his no 4 and 10 losses. We were talking with him and he said, while you need very deep pockets to play this system, he had never been wiped out and never failed to win on a vegas trip, and he was an old guy who had been playing this system for along time.
I have never tried this system , but it is intriquing.
I have never tried this system , but it is intriquing.
See it in your mind FIRST...Then do it!
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Mad Professor
- Posts: 1830
- Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2011 12:15 pm
Re: Lump of Progressions
Hi Americraps,
There's a couple of guys who play that same method at Ceasar's Windsor. They also switch their No-4 and No-10 bets to No-2 and No-12 bets on C-W's Crapless Craps table (which triples their cash-outlay to achieve the same hedge).
MP
There's a couple of guys who play that same method at Ceasar's Windsor. They also switch their No-4 and No-10 bets to No-2 and No-12 bets on C-W's Crapless Craps table (which triples their cash-outlay to achieve the same hedge).
MP
Re: Lump of Progressions
Well well well. Noodling around waaaay back in the early part of the Betting Strategies sub-board and I came across a little gold mine of what I refer to as "Dead European Mathematician" progressions. Most of you are familiar with most of these, but some may be new to you. You might want a refresher anyway - particularly if you are a single bet Don't player.
"Get in, get up, and get gone."
- Heavy
- Heavy
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r_ventura_23
- Posts: 1035
- Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:11 am
- Location: New Jersey
Re: Lump of Progressions
I love the Labourchere on Roulette Baccarat and Pai Gow Poker. I use the following sequence.
111
112
111
112
111
My first bet is always 3 units to get rid of a 2 and a 1....and if it wins I regress to two units.
111
112
111
112
111
My first bet is always 3 units to get rid of a 2 and a 1....and if it wins I regress to two units.