Heavy's Axis Power Craps Forum

House of Orange wrote:

memo wrote:Stratocasterman,

I just use 'kissing aces. 6,5 5,6
I know there are others, but with this, I can set quickly and very commonly get a long string of hits.
I have had sessions where the staff, after observing several come out rolls, will begin to press with me.

Are you sure? You can't have 65/56 and have 1's kiss, only 3's or 4's

Yes, (paint my face red)
I haven't looked at this much lately
Just set um and go

Memo

Okay, we've heard from the old-timers. How about you new guys on the forum. Time to break out of your comfort zone and post. We won't beat you up too bad.

heavy wrote:Okay, we've heard from the old-timers. How about you new guys on the forum. Time to break out of your comfort zone and post. We won't beat you up too bad.

Agreed...can we get some more input?

18$ six (8 if 6 is point), on a win drop 15$ for 54 across.
It controls your exposure to short rolls, without being perfect... it acts as a buffer. If you get a losing streak you're down 150$...leave simple as that. When it gets a few hit you're easy in the green. Can do 400$ quick and progress to a more aggressive play then.

Collect next hit, bring you down to 19$ exposure.

6&8 go:
12-(+4$)30-36-60-42

5&9 go:
10-25-35-75-100-175-35

4&10 go:
10-b25-b35-b75-b150-b25

I used this a lot in the past month. It's a bit messy on first look but it pays well early, press aggressively and regress to a level that pays 49$ a hit. The only thing is, if my bets spread too much instead of repeating, if I get more then 200$ on table with a low profit racked by the...say 10-12 hits. I regress to 54 across or 18$ 6&8.

Made about 3k$ Profit this month using mostly this and my regression system when ahead on the session.

Thanks DanF

Only number that hits

Only pressing the number that hits seems the consensus opinion. There have been plenty of stories on here from various reports where 6 hits loads for example and 8 is off having a snooze somewhere. It's certainly how I like to press my numbers as a hand develops.

LS: I believe that comes from Grafstein.

It does, but I tested both and I like it better when I press numbers alone. Especially outside numbers.

But When the point is inside and I know the thrower isn't a big time luckbox. I like to go 18$ six, on a win take 34$ inside. And drop 3$ on a win for 17 inside press, collect one on each number, then press numbers by themselves.

It's my backup plan for a lower investment.

Newbie here.

What is the:

'kissing aces. 6,5 5,6 set"

Thanks!!

pony_player wrote: ↑Sun Oct 08, 2017 8:58 pm Newbie here.

What is the:

'kissing aces. 6,5 5,6 set"

Thanks!!

Pony, that's describing a dice set. 6 and 5 on top, 5 and 6 facing you.

The 'kissing aces' reference was a mistake. The 'kissing' part describes the axial numbers that touch each other in the dice set (i.e. the right face of the left die and the left face of the right die). With a 6/5, 5/6 set, the 3's would be facing each other, not the 1's.

An example of a kissing aces set though would be 4/2 top, 2/4 facing. I ue this set sometimes when shooting from straight out.

22Inside

Spot on 22Inside!

Gotta tell ya...my most recent "Go To, Money Making, BEST Betting Strategy" now is placing all the even numbers and tossing the 2V set. For me, I toss A LOT LESS 7s with the 2V set and rarely toss a 5 or 9 with it. That seems to get me paid on nearly every toss. I've even been so bold as to WOTCO. Yea, sometimes I will toss a CO 3 but, an 11 as well, rarely a 7. Gets me paid from the get go.

I used to rarely EVER bet the 4&10 but now, I seem to just bang "em. Sure does improve profits at 2:1 when buying them. I don't even bet the 5&9 anymore. If I set a 5 or 9 for a point, I just place 1X odds. I start at $6 4&10 and $12 6&8, first hit on either 4 or 10 I will then buy and parlay. Generally try to keep twice as much money on the 6& as I have on the 4&10.

With just a session buy-in of $100 at ($4 & $6 tables here), I press once or twice. If you can hit 2-3 points, you can easily double a buy-in at that rate.

Setting FIRST the the axial numbers { aka: AXIS NUMBERS }
that touch each other in the dice set
( the right die face and the left die face set on the Axis you intended.
Setting the TOP FACES & FRONT VERTICAL is then QUICK/RAPID ).......

Enables the shooter to Quick Set ( aka: Rapid Set ) VERY EFFICIENTLY.....
allowing for a greater number of TOSSES per Minute ....

Everyone including Box , Dealers , other players and THE SHOOTER are very HAPPY .

just me saying
w c

The strategy I like to use when I feel my toss is on and the table is not crowded is playing $110 inside and regressing to $66 inside with 2 or 3 hits. However I use some rules with this play.
1. Maximum 4 rolls to regress
2. Hits in first 2 rolls I will go one more roll to get 3rd hit, if not then regress
3. Only 1 hit in 4 rolls then regress to $44 inside
4. No hits in 4 rolls then (crap) regress to $12 6 & 8 and single odds on line

Pressing up after regression: According to the point(ie 6 or 8) I want to press the 5 and 9 two units on the 1st hit to $25 each ($30 each for 6 & 8). Then press only numbers hit after that. Goal is to get to 50 for 1 as quick as possible.

Nice work Al. I like your system and the rules you have too for getting money off the table if the hits aren't coming.

There's a lot to like about this Al. I like to think of it as "flexible discipline"

Yeah Al. I like how you adjust the progression based on number of hits. Deeper regress if they're not hitting. Your method coincides with how I like to play, using certain rules or triggers...similar to If/Then programming statements. The trick is having the discipline to follow through and avoid the "...just one more" greed attempt.

I think my best sessions are based on a strong "if/then" plan as AlB outlines above. If I am just making it up as I go along I generally overbet and/or leave too much money on the table.

I don't get on here very often, and post even less.

One of the things I've noticed is that so many of these various strategies assume $5 tables. If you are a regular Vegas player, in my experience, you need to be prepared for $10 tables as the norm, and higher during busy times.

With that said, it seems to me that regression betting makes sense only when you hit a number or two after placing the bets out there before the second roll. After thousands of rolls in practice and sometimes at a live table, I've found that the short rolls clean the felt for you, and then you have such a big hole to dig out of that regression is no longer a good strategy. If any of you tell me you never have a point/7 experience or 4 or 5 junk rolls and then a 7, I'd like to be with you when you roll. Even somebody with an SRR of 10 is going to have a substantial majority of their rolls be under 15.

One strategy I'm working with in practice is this:
$10 table offering 3,4,5x odds.
Base strategy is PL with full odds, then a come bet, a basic strategy that lots of people use to tiptoe into a given game.

So, let's say you get the dice and your point is 6. Put $50 odds behind the number. If you roll a 7 next, your damage is only $50.
But, let's say the next number is a 9 following a successful come bet. With full odds on the 9, you now have $110 at risk. If you roll a 7 now, you are 'F'd' as they say in polite company.

But, let's say the next roll or two are numbers you don't have, or some junk, then you hit the 9.
Instead of coming off the 9 and making another come bet, you leave the 9 up as a $25 place bet and put a $12 place bet on the 8. Now, you are down $27 with a green chip on the 9, a $12 8 and a 6 with full odds. ( You could also cut the point of 6 down to $25 odds to be more cautious)

So, you hit the 8 next, throw $4 at the crew and bump it to $30. From now on, if any green number hits, rack $25 and place a number you don't have covered.

So, next, you hit the 9 again. It pays $35. Rack $25 and place the 5 for $10 and press the 5 up to $25 if it hits, etc.
Now you have a $10 5, a 6 with fulls odds, a $30 8 and a $25 9.

Next, the point of 6 hits. You get paid $70 (less if you've cut the odds in half after the 1st hit), but you now place the 6 for $30 and prepare to cover the next uncovered number with a $10 bet.

Come out roll is a 10. Put $10 odds behind the 10.
Now everything is ready to rock with only the 4 needing a $10 place bet off the next hit that pays $35.

You get the picture. You've made a little money by this point in the roll, but I haven't calculated it.

It is a form of piecemeal regresssion. The most you can lose is $120 ( if the 6 and 8 are the naturals) and all you have to do is hit one of your initial numbers in order to severely reduce the amount at risk.

This progression gets you into green chips across pretty quickly ( assuming you get a little roll going) without having to do something like $160 across and trying to get 2 or 3 hits before regressing down to $10 bets which you then have to build back up.

There are variations. You can do the PL with full odds, then place the sister for the same pay-off. You can come down on both of your initial numbers on the first hit on either. The goal of the strategy is to be playing all 6 box numbers with green chips and a substantial roll underway.

I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else is doing something like this and what you think the flaws might be in such a system. I also sometimes do this play using triple odds, and it works just about as well with a max exposure of $80.

Alamo

Excellent post, Alamo. The fact that $5 games are often hard to find and that on the strip on weekends it's often hard to find anything less than a $15 game is why all of my personal betting strategies are geared toward a $15 game. Thanks for stopping by and posting.