Heavy's Axis Power Craps Forum

So what if you observe and match the bets.... win 2k-10k and decide you don't like the system and don't want to buy it

Obie, errr... that is not free that is more of a test drive. That is like walking into a Mercedes dealership and saying, before I spend $100k on this Mercedes I'd like to drive it for the weekend and the dealer says I tell you what, drive it for the weekend and if you can find enough people willing to pay you a total of $100k to ride in it then once you hand me the money its free. No, the car is still $100k, you just had other people helping you pay for it.

Not busting you Obie, after all I did sort of defend you again rollercoaster making you suffer the consequences... but just say the system costs $995 but you're happy to let people see it works, to make enough money watching it work, then they buy it from the winnings not that $995 is free. Paying $0 is free, paying $995 is still paying $995 whether you found the money between the seat cushions, robbed the tooth fairy for it, borrowed it, begged it, slept with your best friend's bone ugly cousin to get it, inherited it or the money fell out of the sky.

Again, not busting you, just saying that statements like this really come off kind of... snakeoily if you know what I mean. Not to mention what happens if those 10 sessions, god forbid, lose them money? Do you rebate them that money, offer ten more, if ten doesn't convince them how do you keep them from seeing what you bet in future so they can just monkey see monkey do their way into wealth? Try it before you buy it sounds much better than hand me $995 you won from the casino and I'll call it free because you got the money gambling while emulating what I did.

That sounds like the best offer I have seen if you can tone it down to a lower level of play. I have seen you go 15000 across and there is no way I would play that large. If you could make it a 600 buy in and adjust your bets accordingly you should have a lot of interest.

Then too, alternate thought, if Obie buys in for $5000 and you buy in for less why wouldn't you simply use ratio and proportion to size your own bet. If he buys in for $5000 and you buy in for $250 your bets should where possible/practical be 1/20th of his, if not possible due to table minimums, round up. If your buy is $300 and his is $5,000 your bet would be 6% of his rounded up where needed. If the 98+% session wins are to be believed, your disproportionately large betting relative to buy in should work in your favor for percentage profit vs buy in.

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So o o a guy could.....Set up an Taxi Alternative Smart Cell Phone Account

Request a weekend take home deal of a lease vehicle return from a Mercedes or better yet Roles Royce Dealership
Then hustle all weekend until the ride has to be returned Monday or Tuesday......

Should the TAKE be substantially enough$$$$$ ditch the CASINO CRAPS THINK and go all in for the
LUXURY RIDE SMART CELL PHONE ALTERNATIVE TAXI biznizz there may be luxury dealerships aplenty


Just me saying

W C

English is actually a third language to me. Last time I checked free meant nothing exchanged for the item. As a member on the forum I read your posts and followed your success with interest. Alas this is where my interest level s evened out. I think I will pass and color up.

Obie1,

I am reading about your strategy with an open mind. A few questions are coming up for me with your website showing a 98.8% win rate, would you help us to better understand your definition of a "win"?

Do you count a win as:
Net positive cash on a single bet
Net positive cash on a single roller
Net positive cash on a single buy-in at one single table
Something completely different

Are all of the "wins" counted from live table play in a casino?

Thanks,

I am trying to figure out where the "free" is: (match my bets for the 10 to 14 sessions). If you only played a two hour session, you still invest 20 to 24 hours at the tables. Personally, I do not see where you are getting a positive expectation from a negative expectation game. Please show us the math. As I understand your scheme, it is simply like following a trend. Secondly, where is the value? I simply do not believe that you have come across something brand new in the craps game that someone has not tried since Moby Dick was a minnow. I have been collecting systems for a long time and each and every one is worth what I paid for them. I do miss the old "Jim the System Man" site. He must have had close to two hundred systems on it and I am pretty positive he thought about the same as me. sia
Let me add here if some nitwit took you up on this, he would be slow learner to not learn what you are doing in 20-24 hours, so please explain why he would need you to "give" it to him?
Now: You can obtain "The Strategy" ...for *FREE !!!
hence: "The Strategy" is virtually free!!!
Duh???

gargoil wrote:English is actually a third language to me. Last time I checked free meant nothing exchanged for the item. As a member on the forum I read your posts and followed your success with interest. Alas this is where my interest level s evened out. I think I will pass and color up.

Gargoil, u one of few ppl I really respect outside of AC even I saw u only ones in LV. But if Obie's proposition is not good enough then "live session " selling around is what? For me live sessions are fee to enter casino . However, any way is too late for some- all sessions are sold out.

I was there playing with you in Tunica...I appreciate the opportunity although I could not understand exactly what you were doing....I look forward to the next time..

Buy the way I did very well....As you saw my 5 straight sevens on come out....After that I rolled four straight points and then left with makes 4 times my bankroll....Plz let me know your next

outing maybe I can make it....Thanks Bryan

Obie,

If I wanted to take you up on your offer, realistically, how much money would I need to bring with me and be prepared to possibly lose to match your bets for 10 sessions? I only say be prepared to lose because that is the reality any time any of us go to a Craps table regardless of the play planned.

This seems to me like it is pretty much like signing up for any other dice class offered by anyone else. Always buyer be ware and do your homework before committing. For me cost is always a consideration on any of them. So what is the money out lay besides the cost of the strategy?

Thanks!

My .02...

I Really haven't read any negative comments from people who have purchased. Ive talked to a few who have played and some had losing sessions for whatever reason in the beginning but i think are doing better now. I understand one is not going to win every session. Minimizing the losses while maximizing the gains is very important IMO. I do not know if you do this or not. I use a trailing stop loss trailer with Trend Setter Levels 1-6 as I play and my trailer gains an extra bet every 5 units profit beyond my 10u win goal.... I hear about the small $50-$150 wins one is trying to achieve. To me you need some big wins to offset some of the losses and not big wins from 'High Risk' by stepping up a $10 bet and $64 across to a $1000 wager and $6400 across. Im referring to Making the big WINS from the same normal buy in as I buy in for $500-1000 almost every session depending if I'm playing a $50 unit or $100 unit. I respect what you are doing in that I know it takes years to master something you feel can WIN Longterm. So if these Wins are truly 98% can you answer some questions I have? TIA

1) Are you 'Ever' going to make it to Sin City Vegas where you would have over 300 craps tables to choose from?
Im sure you would warrant a BIG following to a city like Vegas.

2) You say no martingale / no bets increased off a Loss. But if you Lose a series of bets at 1 level of betting, and then get a win, would you then increase your bets as to get back some of your losses. So essentially your increasing your bets, but not off a Loss. You wait to go negative (sort of speaking) only off a WIN?

3) If you were to throw out the 5 highest WINs and 5 Lowest Wins of your 500 sessions, what is your average Win amount per session in dollars? and what would be the average amount at risk to a 7out to achieve this Win?

4) You say a session is around 1-1.5 hrs. What would a guess be to how many times you are making a series of bets during this session time$ $64 across would constitute one series of bets on 6 numbers in this example.

5) How many Units do you require for a)Overall Bankroll, b)table buy-in and c) what is the WIN goal in units or % for a session?

thx

Good questions. Hope they get answered.

Noah

I find it funny Obie1 had time to answer a positive post from RBBSR1 but has not yet answered very good questions from RhythmRoller.

Gargoil,

To be fair to Obie, I think to answer our questions well will take a bit more thought than the one he gave RBBSR1 which was that he will let him know the next time he is in Tunica. Simple and polite.

I don't have a problem with a little patience in waiting for the answer to my question.

Thanks Obie.

Does the package come with a pendulum of probability?

obie1 wrote:

I say that because: by using The strategy indicators, the player gains a small percentage advantage over the house and in time should win in the long haul.

Obie1 (...2Qs down 3 to go)

My question is this, if by indicator you mean, a certain set of variables being present is indicative of a possible future event [like tremors are indicative of a future earthquake] and in gambling it is understood you can't merely bet that a 7 will eventually come or that Barry Bonds would eventually hit a home run [its the level of accuracy to which a precise event occurs that allows the payout because you are betting that Bonds will hit a home run at or before some finite time as opposed to some day] and further gaining an advantage over the house means what it implies, not that you take away a portion of the house edge but rather you take the entire edge away and instead now have an edge over the house such that instead of the house having an advantage on a place 6 of 1.52% suddenly you have maybe a 1% advantage over the house, how do you explain that?

Lets put it in slightly different terms, lets say I crunched the numbers for the Powerball drawing and find the 6 most frequently drawn numbers for a Saturday draw, or I get more specific and go for a Saturday draw in August... ok, now I have my indicators that MAYBE those 6 numbers get drawn. That does not in any way translate into my now having a small advantage over the Powerball, it merely means of all the 175 million combos I found the 1 combination most favored by the criteria I chose, I could just have easily chosen the 6 most frequently chosen numbers during a specific phase of the moon, after an equinox, or any other criteria that has no statistical bearing or weight upon the outcome of the draw I intended to play.

Now, using math, real math... and real science, please explain to me how you just gained an advantage over the house by seeing something that may or may not indicate that an event may or may not occur at, after, or before some other event that may or may not occur?

Trust me, I want to believe that the dealer has it right when he says see a 10 bet a hard four or what have you, but the truth is since there are 36 possible outcomes of a dice roll of which 21 are readily discernible from each other [such as a 5-1 vs a 1-5 is not but a 3-3 vs a 5-1 is] if I roll a twelve there are 11 possible numbers I could roll next and 21 hop bets I could chose from and even if every dice roll was part of a cosmic plan of reoccurring patterns how the hell could I determine quickly and efficiently which of the multitude of patterns I was in the midst of to make the proper bet?

Could you perhaps answer that for me Obie, or at least clarify why you'd misstate the obvious that seeing a indicator of something you believe will happen does not in fact mean IT HAS to happen. I mean if I see some one pick up the dice it is an indicator they will eventually roll a 7 since the hand ends with it, but that is not the type indicator that I could use to have a clearly defined edge.

NEVER PRESS A LOSING BET...

That is, of course, classic Grafstein. But it goes beyond that IMHO. Let's say you have $30 on the six and eight and the six rolls. It pays $35. You could drop $1 and press the six and eight to $48 each. Or you could press the six only, which is my move these days. I drop $2 and press to $42 while locking up a green chip. Technically, the eight is not a losing bet - it's just not a winning bet. So I personally would change that statement to "ONLY PRESS A WINNING BET." Just my thinking.

Your don't pass bet has an advantage once it has made it past the come-out roll?...!!! This is brilliant. I suppose the "strategy" part of this was the observation that the previous shooter saw 2 sevens within 5 rolls which provides the insight/foresight/indicator to make that don't pass bet?