Heavy's Axis Power Craps Forum

Hi All,
I realize the best goal to have when you walk into a casino is to walk out with more money than you started with.
I realize that fundamentals of bankroll management include setting win and loss limits, and sticking to your plan, esp.sticking to the "loss limit" portion of your plan is very important.

That all said, what if your walk up to a craps table with a different goal? What if the goal is "preserve bankroll while maximizing time at the table."
The underlying reasons for this goal could vary greatly. It could be that you just want run up your comps but not lose a significant amount of your starting bankroll for the session. It could be that that your just into the slow grind of conservative craps play.

In any case, what betting strategies may not turn a big profit, but also will preserve your bankroll and allow you to keep on wagering for a long time for a "slow burn"? Off the top of my head, I was thinking the standard, pass or DP with full odds/full lay with NO come bets is a good way of doing
this. I was also thinking you can do a lot of 6/8 place bets with a "one hit and down" per hand (until point is hit or 7 out).

Any advise on actual strategies for meeting this goal would be much appreciated.

Pass/DP with full odds is not a good way to play for bankroll preservation as it is very volatile even at 3/4/5 level. For least volatility, don't take any odds.

6/8 one hit and down will be a much smoother ride.

SIAs one hit can't miss is probably the best kind of play.

Ultimately you want as few bets as you can realistically get away with which are from the lowest house edge area of the all the bets offered, so pass/DP, come/dc, odds if you want and place 6/8 or combos of these.

Thanks London Shooter

To kill time one flat DP per shooter is what I do. Once the point is set, just sit back and wait for a decision. Kinda like fishing, bait the hook toss it in the water and sit back and wait for a bite.

Until your turn comes to shoot then you bet whichever way you want.

If I go the 6/8 route, minimum bet but working on the come out. One hit and down.

If you want more comps, minimum bet on the inside numbers working on the come out. One hit and down. But once in a while you get snagged by the seven on the come out. Then that eats into your bankroll.

irish wrote: ↑Thu Mar 29, 2018 11:27 am A flat DC per shooter will give you hours upon hours of table time.

Is a flat DC really significantly better than a flat come? I know that mathematically, its slightly better EV, but in terms of the "slow burn" where you stay at the table for hours with very little change to your bankroll, is a flat DC any better than a flat come bet?

Irukanji wrote: ↑Thu Mar 29, 2018 6:00 pm If I go the 6/8 route, minimum bet but working on the come out. One hit and down.
If you want more comps, minimum bet on the inside numbers working on the come out. One hit and down. But once in a while you get snagged by the seven on the come out. Then that eats into your bankroll.

Irukanji: When you say "inside numbers working on come out, then one hit and down", do you mean, one hit on any single inside number, and take down all four place bets, or wait for each place bet to hit before taking each individual one down?

One hit on any single number then down. After all trying to maximize table time and bank roll.

Collectively there is a 50% chance (probability or propensity )
of one of the four inside box numbers ( 5,6,8,9 )
showing on any one roll of the dice....
.
Collectively there is a 33 % or 34 % chance ( propensity or probability )
for ONE of the numbers( 2,3,4,- 10,11,12 ) to show on any one roll of the dice
.
The HOWEVER FACTOR is the 16.666666 or rounded up 17%
GREATER PROPENSITY of THE SEVEN showing on any one roll of the dice...

Thus the probability or if I have used it correctly Greater Propensity
is a steep hill to clime
or
deep hole to dig one's self out...........

It has been said :
" Dice are the devil's marbles "
and
Craps is a game of zero expectation played by optimists....

just me saying
w c

irish wrote: ↑Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:58 am If a few rolls are occurring, then the DC will travel and have a better shot at coming back. It'll also be a bit of personal preference. Do you want to be seen as playing "with the house?" Not a concern for me. The other thing is a single DC is a gateway to playing dark side more frequently. You'll start getting the odds and how to heal your chips and all of that.

Irish: I thought that above, you were posting a bit of Zen wisdom of a Sith Lord (Star Wars reference) with your blurb about DC being a "gateway to the darkside " and learning the odds and "healing your chips". But you weren't talking about magically healing your chips, were you? You were referring to "Heeling your chips", meaning stacking the chips on your "lay odds bets" the way aa dealer normally would?
Is it "healing" or "heeling". Also, you either heel or bridge DP odds:)

It's a funny thing about the DC. As much as I play it, lay odds, etc. last time I got hit, or would have gotten smacked on almost every one of them. It was either a seven/eleven showing or the number it moved to was hit by the shooter. The ones that worked the best were when the DC moved to a 6 or 8. Go figure that one. Naturally on those numbers I only stuck $12 in back. The best thing that works for me is to remove the bet if a seven doesn't show within 3 rolls. That gets raised eyebrows from the crew. "Man..you have the best bet in the house." Then I take the no 4 down and what do you know..the shooter throws it next. Some days the farce is with you..some days it isn't.

Try this:

18$ 6, 12$ 8.

First hit drop to 44 inside or pairs.

Work presses independently
Second hit fullpress & complete the bet.

Collect two hits.

Fullpress again.

Collect 2-3 hits.

Fullpress/collect till it drops.

Cost 30$ can bring you 250+ ez. Not going to work everytime, but with a good loss limit it will work over time.

DanF, why the unbalanced 6/8 to start?

Dan's Plan: 18 plus 12 equals 30 . . . plus either the 21 payoff (total 51) or 14 payoff (total 44). One hit on the six or eight and go to $44 inside.

How does this help maximize table time and preserve bankroll? A PSO costs the player $30. A seven out before the six or eight roll (for example 3 - 9 - 5 - 4 - 11 - 10 - 2 - 4 - 9P) yields zero profit. A hand just half as long as that one but ending in a seven costs the player $30. But get this. IF the player hits the 8 for a $14 pay off and then goes to $44 inside he STILL has $30 at risk. That's $30 sevens exposure until (unless) he gets another hit on the six or eight.

To me this does not serve the function described on the original proposition.

Guess I'll add my opinion. The OH-CM is good on a choppy table or hot table, but a cold table will skin you. If I were not wanting to make a killing on the table, I would flat bet the DP, minimum bet, then increase the flat bet as I won. Second way would be to start with double the minimum and decrease on a win and increase on a loss. Again, a hot table will skin you. sia
Oh, let me add for THNICK: A better play rather than removing the DC is to place the number. Then either a wash or a win.

heavy wrote: ↑Fri Mar 30, 2018 2:15 pm Dan's Plan: 18 plus 12 equals 30 . . . plus either the 21 payoff (total 51) or 14 payoff (total 44). One hit on the six or eight and go to $44 inside.

How does this help maximize table time and preserve bankroll? A PSO costs the player $30. A seven out before the six or eight roll (for example 3 - 9 - 5 - 4 - 11 - 10 - 2 - 4 - 9P) yields zero profit. A hand just half as long as that one but ending in a seven costs the player $30. But get this. IF the player hits the 8 for a $14 pay off and then goes to $44 inside he STILL has $30 at risk. That's $30 sevens exposure until (unless) he gets another hit on the six or eight.

To me this does not serve the function described on the original proposition.

I was thinking the same thing.

Yes. SIA. That's a sort of delayed OHCM move. Will remember that and set up my DC with either $12 or $18 so that 3 rolls, no action on my don't gets the correct place bet. I know. I could go for the hedge right away, but since the DC on a number has a greater chance of winning with a 7..I'll let it go for 3 rolls anyway.

Of course you get -30 when it goes wrong. But good hands you get 110 inside working for 40$ pay well enough to balance most times. Of course if you get -150 change plan...find some dark side strat, lay the point... can’t beat the game with only one strat.

Say you hit 5-6-9-8-10...and at 5th hit you haven’t had a repeater yet. Regress to 44 and lock down 3*14...
When it goes 8-9-8-6-8-6-9...you just made 105$ and can lock 42$ if you regress. I tried it on my app on a real cold streak. I went up and down a lot but I finished the day +3k. Best results I’ve seen on a progression system yet. Cuz you collect more early under 10 rolls.

So how has it fared in live casino play?

It went okay. I do a lot of regression tho.