Heavy's Axis Power Craps Forum

Last time I played craps often, my regression strategy worked well through the year. At that time, it was $5 minimum and I went $44 inside then regressed to $16/17/22 depending on the point and collected 3 hits before pressing. Covid closures and mandates kept me out of the casino, I was healthy as ever; but now my local casino is smoke-free (yay) and has $15 minimums (ugh.) It's not that I am afraid of $15, it's the multiple bets used inside and the regression.

$44 inside is less pressure than $220 inside, that wins $70 on a hit and regresses down to $66 inside. The first major change is collecting on all hits instead of all cash the first 3.

50/60--->15/18--->20/24--->25/30--->50/60--->75/90--->100/120 etc (could go small-small-big-small-small-big, or keep it at 25/30 each at this point.)

If I take the dice 10 times, probably 2 will be short rolls (hopefully most will have 1+ number), a good number of hands around 14 rolls and probably 2 hands that hit 20 rolls; of the 20+ roll hands it's probably a comparable percentage that hit 40 rolls. My thinking is regress to table minimum at 14 rolls, but press aggressively after; on the chance of a monster.

Pt7 losses should be offset by early collecting, comp points and coupons; with the rest leading to profit.

One additional part that is more aggressive and I'd have to make sure I'm doing it well each day to use it; laying the 5 and 9 on the come out roll only. I think MGM casinos in Vegas are doing vig on win only now, otherwise I'd try to stretch the vig a bit and lay both for $42 each (make sure you get vig back when you take down bets.) The 7/11 set has no 5 or 9 options "if" it remains on axis, this could win 4 times in a row on both bets; but can only lose once on one bet before deciding if you want to put it back up. That being said, in practice it's not as lucrative as I'd hoped; that's why I reserve it for if I'm shooting well in practice and continue once I arrive at the casino.

Finally, it's hard for 1 dice controller to win a lot if they're the only DC at a crowded table; and some shooters don't like to throw endlessly if they get a table to themselves. I strongly suggest building a team, this is one of the great challenges; as most people who can afford to play (even with an edge it requires a good bankroll) usually have a job or are retirees and might not be wanting to play that often. I'll tell you if/how I figure that part out.

Billionaireben wrote: ↑Fri Nov 11, 2022 2:03 am
$44 inside is less pressure than $220 inside, that wins $70 on a hit and regresses down to $66 inside. The first major change is collecting on all hits instead of all cash the first 3.

50/60--->15/18--->20/24--->25/30--->50/60--->75/90--->100/120 etc (could go small-small-big-small-small-big, or keep it at 25/30 each at this point.)

If I take the dice 10 times, probably 2 will be short rolls (hopefully most will have 1+ number), a good number of hands around 14 rolls and probably 2 hands that hit 20 rolls; of the 20+ roll hands it's probably a comparable percentage that hit 40 rolls. My thinking is regress to table minimum at 14 rolls, but press aggressively after; on the chance of a monster.

Pt7 losses should be offset by early collecting, comp points and coupons; with the rest leading to profit.

BB,

I am not sure that I understand your system entirely. It may be a bit complicated for me. Maybe I missed a regression..Not sure.
That being said...I have been incorporating a regression into my betting for quite sometime now..I have tried or war gamed almost everything out there..

if you plan on going 220 inside...You may want to investigate (This is not original from me)
220 inside
First hit pays 70. Place 25 each on the 4, 10. Rack 20 dollars
Second hit pays 70 or 49
Regress to 160 across. With two hits, you have 20 to 41 dollars at risk and 160 out there working for you. Press a'la your favorite strategy..
There are other, more aggressive variations to this.

It is never a bad thing to take money off the table.
However if you get to 14 rolls and press with Heavy's betting schedule it may be unnecessary..That all depends on your bank roll, risk tolerance etc..

Memo

I don't think I'm smart enough to comprehend all that. Lol. Seems very complicated. I do like the 14 hand rolls happening like its no big deal though

Yeah my little pea brain had trouble understanding all of those gyrations as well.

If yr. going to risk $220..How about this. Simple. $150 DP. Get a 6 or 8 place it for $180. You will either lose $30 bucks or make $210-$150..$60. Take that $60 and add $6 and you have yr. $66 in for a cost of $6. Of course if you hit 4, 5, 9, or 10 on the CO..you're in gold country.

AllahPena wrote: ↑Sat Nov 12, 2022 7:54 pm I don't think I'm smart enough to comprehend all that. Lol. Seems very complicated. I do like the 14 hand rolls happening like its no big deal though

Most sessions, if I get the dice 10 times; 2 of them will be 20 roll hands (that includes every roll, come out and seven out) and a few in the 10-15 range (and probably 2 that are fast 7 outs, 2-3 that get 1-3 number rolls.) I'd count on 3-5 being 10-20+ rolls if I stay a whole session, though I did leave if my first 2 tries with the dice were fast 7 outs and I'd come back for 1 more try once I made up the loss. I don't think it's complicated, but it can be simplified down to $44 inside and regress after hitting 1 number for $14 to 5/6/9 for $16 and only having $2 at risk (or more to adjust for larger bets.)

220 inside first hit pays 70/Rack 4 dollars
Make it look like 65 78 78 65 Pays 91
Now go 160 across 25 25 30 30 25 25 If its a vig up front your out 1 dollar.

May i suggest heavys swicth out for the 5 And nine and four and ten;
5and 9 go 25 /35 50 70 and so on swicth pay out for the place bet.
4 And 10 / 25 50 100 200 400 and so on
Good luck

I'll chime in with some simple words. Team play is tough. It's almost impossible to find three to four players who agree on a strategy or approach to team play. Once you find them it's almost impossible to coordinate times and places to play on a regular basis. Even in my situation - retired with plenty of time on my hand and plenty of local contacts who are good shooters at multiple positions - I'd never consider playing a team bankroll approach. It's always every man for himself, and that just doesn't always work out for the best. The team approach that I teach in my Bootcamp weekends includes a roll for a Don't player, but his primary role is that of bookkeeper, keeping track of everyone's bets and payoffs as the game progresses to make sure that when we go to the cage - as a group - after coloring up that the $$$ is right at the end of the session and everyone is paid appropriately. That's because every time I've attempted to play with a larger group professionally in the past we've always ended up with at least one person on the team who was a bit of a cheat.

So - my guidelines. Three team members. Two shooters from SL or SR with one blocker on the end they're shooting to. If you want a Don't player in the mix - it's him. OR Four team members. One SL and one SR with a blocker on each end. If the blockers are qualified (and I mean damn good) straight out shooters they can shoot. Otherwise, they pass the dice back to the shooters.

If any randies buy in - you just don't bet on them or you play one hit can't miss three or four handed - with the straight out players betting the Don'ts and the SR and SL players betting the Six and/or Eight. You can sort out who bets how much. That's just to insure that you have action in the game and the house doesn't pass the dice on you.

That's my opinion - for what it's worth.